It's the Epsom Derby today, followed by Royal Ascot next week-at York for a year while a new grandstand is built at the usual venue. So a busy time, north and south, for gentlemen of the turf. And standards of dress - for both these occasions morning coat and top hat - must still be maintained to avoid social blushes.

Whatever champagne stains your silk topper suffers this afternoon, Patey Ltd, in London's East Dulwich, offers a complete, luxury refurbishment service ahead of the Royal Meeting. Indeed, managing director Trevor Campan has turned around hats in a day for Ascot. Even those completely out of shape can be repaired to the standards required by his Royal warrant in a fortnight.

Craftsmanship two centuries old - the company dates back to 1799 - employs insect extract and pig fat to ensure gleaming silk plush, used for top hats since the 1850s when beaver fur rocketed in price. In the workshop at Patey, which also makes ceremonial headgear and riding hats, factory manager Steve Cutts smoothes any dents using 5lb cast irons heated in fires.

A silk topper's body, consisting of calico cloth cured with shellac (a substance made from beetles) would have been originally shaped using the same irons, so it remains responsive to this heated panel beating. Cloth protects the silk as Steve presses round the hat using a wooden mould for purchase. Pig fat on a pin cushion is heated by brushing the iron and gentle strokes produce a sergeant major shine.

And, if you buy second hand, Patey can often reshape your purchase to fit the peculiarities of your head. An old-fashioned conformiture, which looks like Dr Frankenstein's cast-off, gauges these by taking an impression of your skull.

My own topper remains resplendent from a Patey makeover in 2001, so a polish should suffice before racing on Tuesday. More Professor Higgins than Artful Dodger, at least on top.

Patey Ltd, London SE15, 020 7635 0030. Silk top hat refurbishment £100 - £195