Collars and Cuffs
Financial Times - Aug 27, 2006

Collars and cuffs

By Colin Cameron (FT magazine Pampering Pleasures)

With dress codes for men you might as well reach for the straitjacket, so inflexible are the rules. The blessing in my search for a bespoke shirt is that I have found collar and cuff designs rich in quirks yet with their origins in traditional tailoring.

The treat of self-expression without risk of faux pas is thanks to Timothy Everest. He is well known for kitting out the likes of Gordon Brown with suits. The tailor's Artillery Lane shirt shop complements the full top-to-toe service at Elder Street, across Spitalfields Market.

On arrival, I am offered coffee by Simon Cummins who set up the specialist shirt outlet earlier this year. This refreshment blends nicely with the mocha decor. Mirrors everywhere ensure this tight corner of olde London town doesn't cramp individual thinking.

Once I have settled on ice blue, two-fold, 120-yarn cloth, we consider cuffs. Cummins proposes Classic double, with rounded edges. A city gent has this for weekend casuals to ensure there's no mistaking his stock out of office hours. I am drawn to the three-button Flower Pot, shaped accordingly, and the James Bond with vent, best displayed by Sean Connery in From Russia with Love.

Collars require a London A-Z.

I ponder five options: Mayfair, Soho, Albany, Hoxton and - one imagines Gordon Brown's preference - Bank. Thick neck, small collar, advises Cummins. I have a tie in mind so I opt for the cut- away finish.

Measurements are taken in the bespoke back-room. My neck is only 151/2; the rest - waist, chest, shoulder to wrist, neck to seat - is reassuringly proportional. With no watch to flash, standard cuff depth.

My initials spell CAC, so I pass on a monogram. This old-school personal branding, which ensured weekends away passed without laundry chaos, is replaced today by the shirtmaker's logo. Instead, to set myself apart, I can't go past Bond cuffs. My shirt will take six weeks. Then, Martinis - shaken not stirred.

Timothy Everest shirts from £120, 52 Artillery Lane, London E1, 020 7377 8755.

 

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