It's rare to take a moment. In the wine library and reading room at the Falvo family's Negozio Classica, it's compulsory, according to Guiseppe, the manager. "You take your time here," he explains. "You must pause."

Access to this peaceful haven off the west London tourist drag of Portobello Road is through the front of house. This boasts shelves heaving with imported Italian produce and fine wines, all for sale -including the owners' own Avignonesi, which you can also enjoy at pavement tables or on stools at a stainless steel bar.

For mental sanctuary, head to the back of the shop. When you reach the reading room, classic Italian Albini-designed armchairs invite you to take up residence.

The idea, Giuseppe explains, is a space to contemplate produce the Falvos have been sourcing since 1989. Sitting back with feet up, I imagine that gentleman's clubs could be like this if the concept had originated in Rome.

Here, I can engage as well as rest my mind. Flat-screen televisions show clips from Fellini classics, and footage of il divine ponytail, Roberto Baggio, whose football artistry - and hairstyle - earned him his nickname. A book shelf houses the wine library. The Corney & Barrow catalogue and a 2000 edition of Slow Food's wine guide allow me to contemplate cellar expansion. The signed copy of Arrigo Cipriani's La leggenda dell' Harry's Bar tempts me to plan a weekend in Venice.

For now, as company I take some wine, available by the glass from £3.50 and consider the snack menu. The 50:50 blend of merlot and Sangiovese would go well with the parmigiano Vacca Rosa, produced from the milk of a rare breed of cow, and specially imported. This time, instead, I enjoy Tuscan ham with pecorino, then savour a cafe macchiato amid the splendid seclusion.

Outside the people traffic is heavy. A tourist peers through the library and reading room window at me sitting peacefully. Can't she see I'm busy?

Negozio Classica, 283 Westbourne Grove, London W11, 020 7034 0005

www.negozioclassica.co.uk