What a performance. Watching diners scramble for food at Teatro del Sale in Florence, you might think those plundering what is laid out on a main table, buffet-style, are rushing to make a curtain call.

In fact, they are. In 2003, master chef Fabio Picchi opened the doors of an old Florentine theatre having, through innovative refurbishment of a site that began life in the 14th century as a convent, installed a kitchen and created enough space for tables and chairs to accommodate up to 99 diners. Now traditional Tuscan food is served every night. At the end of the meal patrons rearrange the furniture so that all are facing the stage and enjoy an evening of music or entertainment.

Waiters take orders for only wine. When it comes to food, you simply wait to hear the chef, visible behind windows to the kitchen, shout through a hatch what's next up on the communal table. First, steaming trays of saffron risotto and pasta, followed by skewered chicken and beef girarrosto and, finally, dessert of cake and cream. Like the mainly local crowd, you must embrace the first-come, first-served regime. Manners may maketh the man but they can leave you hungry here.

The prospect of entertainment restores order. After dessert, the kitchen, which is at the back of the theatre, shuts and guests lift tables aside and move chairs to create the theatre stalls. Then the lights dim. On my visit, a trio of guitar and flute players took to the stage to deliver magical Mediterranean sounds. On another night, it could be folk music, poetry, political satire or stand- up.

The Pitti Immagine "Taste" food festival is in Florence next month, but Teatro del Sale sets the city standard for value. Once a fee for annual membership - €5 on the door for visitors like me - has been paid, €25 for as much as you can grab to eat is no drama.

Teatro del Sale, via dei Macci, 111/r, Florence, 0039 (0)55 200 1492, www.teatrodelsale.com